Somaliland is a great destination for seasoned travelers in search of an unusual travel experience. It is a self-declared state, internationally recognized as an autonomous region of Somalia, and it has its own currency, flag, military, and government. While most of Somalia is very dangerous to visit, Somaliland is different, and the safety of tourists is taken very seriously. Keep reading for my Somaliland travel guide and my experience as a solo female traveler.

At first, Somaliland may not seem like an obvious destination for a solo female traveler. Still, I decided to go—and it turned into one of my most exciting and rewarding journeys. Here, I’ll share my personal experience and essential tips for women traveling solo in Somaliland.

 

Getting a Visa for Somaliland

Some nationalities can get a visa on arrival, but I had heard of people running into trouble when crossing the border overland. That’s why I decided to play it safe and apply for the visa beforehand in Ethiopia.

I’ve written a separate guide that explains the visa process in detail here.

How to Get to Somaliland

If you’re traveling from neighboring countries Ethiopia or Djibouti, you can either fly or travel overland.

From Djibouti

From Djibouti City, shared 4WD cars leave every afternoon from Avenue 26. To secure your spot, go there in the morning, book your seat, and return after 3 pm for departure. These cars only travel at night due to the heat, and since there are no buses—only private 4WD vehicles—the drivers can pretty much charge whatever they want. If the price is close to $100, skip it and book a flight instead. The overland journey from Djibouti to Hargeisa takes about 20 hours.

At the time I visited, Daallo Airlines flied from Djibouti to Hargeisa every Wednesday and Sunday, with tickets costing around $125. Check out their website and book the ticket. If you try to use flight search sites like Momondo, you won’t find any cheap and direct flights, but that’s because they don’t show Daallo Airlines at all. Daallo Airlines is on the list of airlines banned within the EU, but I feel like the reason is mostly the fact that this is a Somali Airline. Another option is Jubba Airways which also offers a direct flight once a week.

From Ethiopia

You can easily fly to Somaliland with Ethiopian Airlines, which operates daily direct flights from Addis Ababa to Hargeisa. Another option is to travel overland: take a bus from Addis Ababa to Harar, continue the next day by minibus to Jijiga, and from there proceed to the border.

Flying from Dubai

If you’re not flying to Somaliland from within Africa, chances are you’ll be coming from Dubai. At the time of my visit, flyDubai was the only non-African airline flying directly to Hargeisa.

Where to Stay in Hargeisa

The Oriental Hotel is probably the most popular choice in Hargeisa, and almost every traveler will recommend staying there. Since I hadn’t booked in advance, it was already fully booked when I arrived (not that there were any other backpackers around though).

Instead, I stayed at the Birikoo Hotel, just a few blocks away, and it turned out to be just as nice—if not better. A room at Oriental Hotel costs about $15 including breakfast, while Birikoo Hotel charges $13 without breakfast. My room at Birikoo was simple but comfortable, with a double bed, closet, mirror, desk, TV, and private bathroom. To my surprise, the WiFi was also quite good.

Check the map or this link for the location, because you can’t find this hotel online or Google maps.

Where to Eat (As a Vegan)

Somaliland and Djibouti have been the most challenging countries for me to travel in as a vegan, since the staple food for many locals is camel meat. I’m not kidding—both countries are mostly desert, so fresh vegetables and fruits are scarce. Bananas and bread were widely available, but finding proper vegan meals was difficult. Once, I ordered Penne Arrabiatta in a more upscale restaurant, and instead of tomato sauce, the waitress served me pasta topped with spiced camel meat. Lesson learned: don’t assume dishes that are vegan elsewhere will be vegan in Somaliland.

My savior was a Yemeni restaurant where I basically had all of my meals and made some new friends too. More about this in the next paragraph…

The Yemeni Restaurant

I highly recommend visiting this restaurant—not just for the food, but also for meeting new people and even arranging tours to other parts of Somaliland. The restaurant serves a great vegan option, foul (beans) with bread, which quickly became my staple meal. On my first visit, I met Riad, a former tourism professional from Yemen who had relocated to Hargeisa because of the war and was now working at the restaurant. He introduced me to other people too, and before I knew it, I was sitting in a stranger’s home, sharing conversations and chewing khat with people I had just met. Check out the location of the restaurant here.

Meeting Local People

The best part of visiting Somaliland is without a doubt meeting new people. Since there are so few tourists (in fact, I didn’t meet a single other traveler during my stay), locals are genuinely curious about you and eager to know why you’ve come to their country.

Things to Do in Hargeisa

While I would still say, that meeting new people is the best part of visiting Hargeisa as there are actually not that many traditional tourist attractions, here are some ideas for your trip.

Hargeisa War Memorial in Freedom Square

The Hargeisa War Memorial is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. It features a MiG-17 fighter jet that once belonged to the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby during the conflict in the late 1980s. The memorial was built to honor Somaliland’s struggle for independence and to commemorate the thousands of civilians who lost their lives during the war. Today, it stands in the heart of Freedom Square as both a symbol of resilience and a source of national pride for the people of Somaliland.

Somaliland Independence Monument

Another notable landmark in Hargeisa is the Independence Monument, a giant sculpture of a hand holding a map of Somaliland. It symbolizes the nation’s self-declared independence and the pride of its people. The monument is located a bit farther from the city center, but it’s hard to miss—you’ll pass by it on the road to the airport.

Damal Hotel for Dinner, Drinks & Sunset Views

Damal Hotel overlooks Freedom Square and is one of the best places in Hargeisa to relax in the evening. Its rooftop restaurant and terrace offer great views of the city, making it a perfect spot to enjoy dinner or drinks while watching the sunset.

Change Some Money – Yes, It’s an Experience

In Somaliland, exchanging money is an adventure in itself. Street vendors sit right next to fruit and vegetable sellers with huge stacks of Somaliland shillings piled up in front of them. Because the value of the currency is so low, you’ll receive a thick bundle of notes even when exchanging just a small amount of US dollars.

Since Somaliland has no internationally recognized banks and very few ATMs, it’s best to bring all the cash you need in US dollars. Hotels, tours, and larger expenses are usually paid in dollars, but for everyday purchases like food or transport, you’ll be expected to use Somaliland shillings.

Chew Khat

Khat is a plant whose leaves are chewed for their mild stimulating effect, and khat-chewing sessions are an important part of daily life and social culture in Somaliland. While it’s considered normal and widely accepted here, khat is actually illegal in many Western countries.

I had already come across khat in Djibouti, so when I was in Hargeisa, I decided to give it a try. The effect is quite mild—it gives you a light buzz and a relaxed feeling—but be prepared: after a while, your mouth will go numb from the chewing. It’s definitely an interesting cultural experience to share with locals.

The Cave Paintings in Laas Geel

Visiting the Laas Geel cave paintings is pretty much a must-do in Somaliland. The site is famous for its remarkably well-preserved rock art, estimated to be over 5,000 years old. Tours can be arranged through the Oriental Hotel, but they don’t come cheap—you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle, an armed guard, and a permit ($20), which together push the total cost to over $100. The price becomes more affordable if you can share the trip with other travelers, but as I mentioned earlier, I was the only traveler in Somaliland at the time.

I stopped by the Oriental Hotel every day to see if any other travelers had arrived, but no one ever did. Eventually, I decided to do the tour on my own, even though it cost an arm and a leg. Instead of booking through the hotel, I arranged it with people I had met at the Yemeni restaurant. If you’re planning to visit Laas Geel, I highly recommend asking there as well—it’s a great place to find local contacts and possibly share the trip.

Visiting Other Places Outside of Hargeisa

While Somaliland is not considered particularly dangerous, all tourists are still required to hire an armed guard when traveling outside of Hargeisa. This makes visiting other parts of the country more complicated and definitely more expensive. I had heard of a few people managing to take a local bus to Berbera without an escort, but most travelers aren’t that lucky. Personally, I didn’t want to risk it—especially since the Laas Geel trip had already stretched my budget. If you have the time and money, I recommend visiting Berbera, a historic beach town on the Gulf of Aden.

My Experience as a Solo Female Traveler

Somaliland definitely isn’t the easiest destination for solo female travelers, but I personally didn’t encounter any problems. Not once did I feel unsafe, though I still took the usual precautions, such as avoiding walking alone at night. Some locals were simply puzzled as to why I was traveling alone as a young woman, since that’s uncommon in their culture—but I completely understood their curiosity.

How to Dress as a Female Traveler in Somaliland

As a female traveler, you should take the dress code seriously. This is one of the strictest Muslim countries in the world when it comes to covering up. I didn’t travel with a proper abaya, so I was using the clothes I already had in my backpack. A long, black maxi skirt is a good start. Then add a T-shirt and loose-fitting long-sleeved blouse (ideally something that covers your ass and chest). Do NOT wear trousers, even if they are baggy.

You should also cover your hair at all times and wear a hijab. If you’re not sure how to tie one properly, an infinity or circle scarf works well. That’s what I used, and it stayed on effortlessly.

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