Angola – A Travel Guide to Luanda, Kalandula Falls, and Pedras Negras

Angola is a vast and fascinating country in Africa, offering unique travel experiences. It’s one of those destinations that very few people know much about, and even fewer have actually visited. Most of the time, the only thing you hear about Angola is how expensive it is, largely due to its oil boom. Luanda, the capital, has even been ranked among the most expensive cities in the world. And yes, I also found the city to be quite pricey—but my main interest was exploring the countryside and the country’s natural wonders. Highlights include Kalandula Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in Africa, and Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo, a striking area of unusual rock formations.

Getting the Tourist Visa

For me, Angola was the last country left to visit in this part of Africa, and I had been waiting a long time to finally make the trip. The reason I hadn’t gone earlier was the notoriously difficult visa process. Fortunately, things changed in 2018 when Angola introduced a new tourist eVisa. Suddenly, one of the hardest countries to enter became much more accessible!

You can apply for the eVisa through their official SME eVisa website. Filling out the application, however, can be a bit frustrating. In my case, the site kept crashing—I had to restart the process about five times before it finally went through.

For the visa application, you will need:

• Passport photo: Width (381 – 571) pixels. Height (496 – 744) pixels. Maximum file size – 200 KB. Image format – JPEG. 
• Passport: A copy of the passport page which displays data and photo. Maximum file size – 300 KB. Image format – JPEG.
• Vaccine Certificate: A valid international vaccine certificate (a yellow fever certificate)
• Proof of accommodation: Hotel reservations or proof of accommodation 
• Proof of livelihoods: Proof of Livelihoods equivalent of 200USD per each day of stay in the territory (a bank statement)
• Ticket reservation: Ticket reservation with a return flight

The document images should be scanned in grayscale with a resolution of a minimum of 100dpi and a maximum of 150dpi in JPEG or TIFF format. Maximum file size TIFF – 15360 KB (15 MB). Maximum file size JPEG – 350 KB. 

I’ve written out these exact details because the requirements are very strict. I personally had to resize several documents multiple times to meet the specifications—otherwise, I couldn’t move forward with the application. That said, make sure to double-check the latest requirements on the official site, as they may change.

I applied for the visa at the very last minute—flying in on Monday and only submitting the application the previous Friday—and surprisingly, it was approved within just two hours. That said, the recommended timeframe is to apply at least two weeks in advance. Luckily for me, the process was much faster than expected.

The visa fee is $120, which you pay in cash upon arrival at the airport. The international airport is quite small, and when I arrived, there was a separate room on the left-hand side where all visas were processed. While waiting for my turn, I noticed that everyone else in the room were businessmen in suits applying for business visas. I wasn’t too surprised—Angola still isn’t high on most people’s travel lists, even with the new tourist visa option.

Currency and Money Exchange

The official currency of Angola is the Kwanza (AOA). You’ll usually get the best rates on the black market, and there’s a local website you can use to check the current exchange rate.

I exchanged both euros and US dollars without any issues. Locals will usually know where you can find money changers, so don’t hesitate to ask for directions. Just make sure to count your kwanzas carefully before handing over your bills, to be on the safe side.

Language

Portuguese is the official language, but since I don’t speak it, I managed to get by using English or Spanish.

SIM Cards

If you want to use the internet—especially when traveling outside the capital—I highly recommend buying a local prepaid SIM card. Unitel has the best coverage, and I chose one of their SIM cards during my trip. When purchasing a SIM card in a store, don’t forget to bring your passport, as it’s required for registration.

Where to Stay in Luanda

Luanda is an expensive city, especially when it comes to accommodation. I tried to find the most budget-friendly option but also made sure to check reviews and looked for a hotel that included a free airport transfer. I highly recommend arranging transport in advance, because if you rely on airport taxis—if there are any at all—you’ll almost certainly be overcharged. I chose Residence DB, and their driver was already waiting for me when I landed.

On the drive to the hotel, I kept gazing out the window, trying to take everything in. The neighborhood around the hotel looked a little dodgy, and the entrance was tucked away at the back of a dirty alley. But once I stepped inside, it began to feel more like a proper hotel. The reception staff were very friendly, and even though it was early morning, they let me check in right away. After two days of traveling, I was exhausted, so getting some rest before exploring Luanda was exactly what I needed. The room itself was decent and clean, with air conditioning and surprisingly reliable Wi-Fi.

If you’re traveling on a budget, Residence DB is a solid choice. Rooms usually cost between $50–$80, which may not sound very budget-friendly compared to other countries, but in Luanda this is on the cheaper side. You can book it on Booking.com.

Another great option is Thomson Art House, located right on the beach in Ilha de Luanda. This stylish boutique hotel features local art and has a much more tourist-friendly atmosphere. I didn’t stay there but visited during my trip (more about that later in the post), and I’d happily recommend it. You can also book Thomson Art House on Booking.com.

When rechecking hotel prices while writing this post, I noticed that rates had changed: Thomson Art House has lowered their prices, while Residence DB has increased theirs. I would only stay at Residence DB again if it was significantly cheaper, as the area around Thomson Art House is much nicer.

What to See in Luanda

Ilha de Luanda

Ilha de Luanda is a narrow peninsula just off the coast of the city. It offers sandy beaches and a selection of nice restaurants, although most of them are quite expensive. For swimming, however, I recommend heading to Ilha do Mussulo instead.

Fortaleza de Sao Miguel

Fortaleza de São Miguel is a must-visit in Luanda. This impressive Portuguese fort, originally built in 1576 to defend access to the city, is steeped in history and beautifully preserved. Today, it houses a military museum and offers panoramic views over Luanda and the harbour—making it both a cultural and scenic highlight of the city.

Mausoleum of Agostinho Neto

The Mausoleum of Agostinho Neto is an obelisk-like concrete structure that serves as Neto’s final resting place. Neto was Angola’s first president, serving from 1975 to 1979 after the country gained independence from Portugal. The style of the mausoleum reminded me of Soviet monuments—you’d expect to see something similar in former Soviet Union countries in Eastern Europe.

Bay of Luanda Waterfront

The new waterfront is a modern urban area with great views of Luanda’s gleaming towers. The promenade features a clean, well-maintained walkway lined with palm trees. It’s also a place where the stark divide between rich and poor becomes especially visible—a contrast shaped by the city’s oil boom.

 Cidade Alta 

Cidade Alta is home to the parliament building and the presidential palace, and it’s worth a visit if you’re interested in old Portuguese architecture. However, as in many African countries, photographing government buildings is strictly prohibited. This means you can’t really walk around and act like a tourist without risking trouble. I only managed to snap one photo while passing by in a moving car.

Other Places Around Luanda

If you have extra time and can arrange transport, I highly recommend exploring a few sights outside the capital. Two popular options are the Ship’s Cemetery and Miradouro da Lua.

Miradouro da Lua (Moon Viewpoint) lies about 40 km south of Luanda. From here, you can admire a stunning landscape carved by years of rainfall and erosion, creating shapes that resemble the surface of the moon.

Ship’s Cemetery is a shipwreck beach scattered with a dozen large abandoned vessels. It’s located about 35 km north of Luanda, but the beach itself is quite isolated. Since there have been reports of tourists being robbed here, I would only suggest visiting with a guide and private transport.

Getting from Luanda to Malanje / Kalandula Falls / Pedras Negras

While in Angola, I wanted to experience more than just the capital. I set my sights on the countryside, specifically on two of the country’s natural highlights: Kalandula Falls and Pedras Negras.

When I started researching transport options, I quickly realized it would be challenging. The main issues were my limited time and the remoteness of these sites. Normally, I prefer traveling overland using public transport, but in this case, I had already booked my return ticket as part of the visa application. I didn’t want to risk missing my flight to São Tomé and Príncipe by relying on unpredictable connections.

If you have the time, one option is to take a bus to Malanje and organize trips to Kalandula Falls and Pedras Negras from there. Both sites are quite remote, and you won’t be able to reach them using the typical African minibuses. Instead, you can either hire a driver or try hitchhiking—just keep in mind that in much of Africa, hitchhiking usually means paying the driver, so always ask the price before getting in.

My hotel’s reception didn’t turn out to be too helpful when trying to research transportation options. I suppose they don’t deal with tourists very often. I had also looked into tour companies in Angola, but most were far too expensive—often asking thousands of dollars for short trips. Renting a car myself also crossed my mind, but I’m glad I didn’t after seeing the condition of some of the roads later on.

I decided to find more tourist-friendly hotels and ask them for help. I came across Thomson Art House while visiting Ilha de Luanda, and their staff turned out to be very helpful and friendly. They had the right local contacts and managed to organize a car and driver for me at a reasonable price.

Visiting Pedras Negras

The plan for the first day was to drive from Luanda to Pedras Negras. We left early in the morning since the journey was quite long. At first, the roads were in fairly good condition, but then we hit a stretch of road construction. For a long while, there was no proper road at all—just a muddy dirt track where we saw several cars stuck. I was relieved that we had a proper 4×4, which handled the conditions without any issues. It was raining a bit, so the dirt roads were in bad shape, but it was nothing compared to the situations I’ve had in other African countries (like the Mozambique – Tanzania border crossing).

Pedras Negras de Pungo Andongo (the Black Rocks at Pungo Andongo) are very unique rock formations. The rocks are massive and rise high above the flat African savanna, so you can see them from far away.

When you get closer, there are two viewpoints. The first one is easy to spot on the right side of the road, and you can park right next to it.

The second viewpoint is a little further down the road after a village. From there, a short walk and climb will take you to the top, where you’ll get a beautiful view of both the village and the rocks.

Where to Stay in Malanje

The best accommodation options in this area are found in Malanje, so that’s where I headed for the night. I walked into the first hotel I came across and asked about the price. A single room cost 20,000 Kz, which felt quite expensive given how rundown the place looked.

Eventually, I found another option called Hotel Portugalia. The price was the same, but the hotel itself was much nicer. The room was very clean and modern, and breakfast was included in the rate.

Visiting the Kalandula Falls

It takes around an hour to drive from Malanje to Kalandula Falls. Just like Pedras Negras, the falls also have two viewpoints offering different perspectives.

The first viewpoint is located at a hotel directly opposite the falls, offering beautiful views. If you want to enjoy the falls longer, you can even stay overnight at the hotel.

The second viewpoint is a little further down the main road and gives you a closer look at the falls. Here you’ll also find some local kids who can guide you to the bottom of the falls if you’re willing to pay them.

Kalandula Falls are one of the largest waterfalls in Africa, and they are truly an incredible sight. This is something that shouldn’t be missed while in Angola. I had already seen Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe, but I have to say I found Kalandula Falls even more impressive. The best part is that they are still a very well-kept secret—I had them all to myself, with no other tourists around.

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