Visiting Eritrea – Travel Guide to Africa’s Hidden Gem

Eritrea is one of the least visited countries in the world, often described as Africa’s hidden gem. With its reputation for being “closed off,” many travelers assume it’s nearly impossible to enter, but with the right contacts, a visit can be surprisingly straightforward. I traveled to Eritrea after finishing my Cape Town to Cairo trip, and it remains one of the most memorable highlights of my time in Africa.

This Eritrea travel guide will cover everything you need to know — safety, visas, getting around, currency, and the best things to see in Asmara and beyond.

Why Visit Eritrea?

Eritrea sits on the Horn of Africa, bordering Sudan, Ethiopia, and Djibouti, with a long coastline along the Red Sea. A former Italian colony, it gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a 30-year war. The country is still shaped by this history — you’ll see old colonial architecture in Asmara and a government that remains cautious toward outsiders.

Yet Eritrea feels unlike any other African country I’ve visited. The capital, Asmara, is peaceful and almost free of traffic. The art deco buildings, cafes serving cappuccinos, and Italian-style gelato shops make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to a 1930s European city. Outside the capital, landscapes range from cool highlands to hot Red Sea ports like Massawa. For adventurous travelers looking for something truly off the beaten path, Eritrea is a gem.

Safety in Eritrea

Whenever I tell people I’ve been to Eritrea, the first question is: “Isn’t it dangerous?” The truth is, Eritrea is one of the safest countries I’ve visited in Africa. I never felt threatened, and I was able to walk around Asmara freely without hassle.

As a solo female traveler, I especially appreciated the lack of street harassment — something I had dealt with a lot in Egypt. In Eritrea, I could finally relax. Of course, the country has its challenges, and many locals are leaving for better opportunities abroad, but for foreign visitors, safety is not a concern.

How to Get the Visa

Eritrea is a relatively closed country, and its land borders are not open to foreign travelers. You also can’t simply walk into an Eritrean embassy and expect to get a visa easily — the chances of success are very low.

When I heard about a local tour company called Asmara Grande and a man named Tekeste who could assist with visas, I emailed him right away. To my surprise, the process was simple: I only needed to send him a copy of my passport, address, phone number, and profession. About a week later, I received a visa approval letter by email. I printed it out, showed it to immigration officers upon arrival at Asmara Airport, and paid $70 in cash for the visa.

If you’d like to visit Eritrea, you can contact Tekeste directly: tekeste.tekeste.azere[at]gmail.com.

Update: It may no longer be possible to obtain a visa on arrival. Instead, you might need to apply at the nearest Eritrean embassy in advance. I can’t say whether the process has become easier, but Eritrea does seem to be opening up more to the outside world. For example, Ethiopian Airlines resumed flights to Asmara in July 2018 after a 20-year break.

Getting in

The only way into Eritrea is by air — land borders are closed to foreigners. Flights arrive in Asmara from Dubai, Cairo, Istanbul, Jeddah, and Khartoum. Turkish Airlines, EgyptAir, and flyDubai are usually the most reliable options.

In July 2018, Ethiopian Airlines resumed flights between Addis Ababa and Asmara. In August 2018, Eritrean Airlines also began operating the same route. However, in 2024, Ethiopian Airlines suspended its flights to and from Asmara, citing difficult operating conditions beyond its control.

Currency and Money

The currency is the Eritrean Nakfa (ERN). There is an official exchange rate, but the black-market rate is usually better. Bring all the cash you’ll need in US dollars — there are no ATMs in Eritrea that accept foreign cards, and you cannot get Nakfa outside the country.

Exploring Asmara – Eritrea’s Capital City

Asmara, the capital city, is the highlight of any trip to Eritrea. Nicknamed “Africa’s Little Rome,” it was shaped by decades of Italian colonial rule (1890–1941). The result is one of the best collections of modernist and art deco architecture in the world, so unique that Asmara was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017.

As a former Italian colony, you can clearly see that influence when exploring the capital city, Asmara. Italian architecture is everywhere — from art deco cinemas to striking modernist buildings — and you can even enjoy pasta, gelato, and pizza, or sit down for a cappuccino at one of the old-school cafés.

The best way to experience Asmara is simply by walking around and immersing yourself in the culture. The city is peaceful and quiet compared to many other African capitals, making walking a real pleasure. There’s no hassle, no aggressive touts, and no unwanted attention. Instead, locals are friendly, warm, and curious, often greeting you with genuine interest since tourists are still such a rarity here.

It’s hard to put Asmara into words — you really have to travel there yourself to understand it. I could spend hours just wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere. The city feels truly unique, with its old Italian colonial buildings and calm, tranquil vibe. It’s so different from other African capitals that at times I felt like I was in Europe, just in another era.

Asmara feels like a city frozen in time. There are no big international brands, little modern technology, and hardly any internet at all. The only way to get online is at specific internet cafés, where the connection is so slow it can take half an hour just to load a single page. Honestly, it’s not worth the effort — better to save your money and enjoy a digital detox. In a way, this lack of technology is part of Asmara’s charm, because instead of everyone staring at screens, people are actually connecting face-to-face.

At 2,325 meters above sea level, Asmara enjoys pleasantly mild weather year-round. Coming from hotter parts of Africa, I even found myself feeling chilly, especially on rainy days. So bring a jacket and jeans — you’ll probably need them!

Where to Stay in Asmara

Eritrea is one of those African countries where most hotels don’t have an online presence, which can make planning a little tricky. I stayed at Sheghey Hotel, where I had a simple room with everything I needed. The only downside was that my room was located above a bar, and the music at night could get quite loud. Another option is The Ambassador Hotel, which is a popular choice among travelers.

Other hotel options in Asmara include:

Hotel Asmara Palace: Five-star hotel featuring a swimming pool, tennis court, fitness center, free wifi, spa & wellness center.

Sunshine Hotel: Old style hotel with a nice terrace and views of the garden. The facilities include free wifi restaurant and bar.

Crystal Hotel: Three-star property with a terrace, free wifi, restaurant and the breakfast is included.

Beyond Asmara: Views & Day Trips

Even just outside Asmara, you’ll find stunning viewpoints. Driving along the road from Asmara to Massawa, the scenery changes dramatically — a reminder of Eritrea’s nickname, the land of three seasons in two hours. I took a local minibus to the spot pictured above to enjoy the fresh air and take in the views.

A Day Trip to Massawa

I wanted to see more than just Asmara, so I decided to make a trip to Massawa, Eritrea’s historic port city on the Red Sea. If you plan to travel to other towns in Eritrea, you’ll need a travel permit for each destination. Luckily, this is a relatively simple process — permits can be obtained from the Tourism Permit Center, located near Sweet Asmara Café. You’ll need a copy of your passport and visa, and usually the permits are ready within a few hours.

I took a local bus to Massawa, and the journey took a few hours. The buses are cheap, run regularly, and despite what I had read in other travel blogs, tourists can take local transportation. I had no issues at all, and no one even asked to see my travel permits.

The route itself is stunning. Eritrea is often described as ‘the land of three seasons in two hours,’ and you really notice it on this drive. I left cool, rainy Asmara in jeans and a jacket, but as the road descended towards the coast, the temperature rose steadily. By the time I reached Massawa, I was melting in the hot, humid weather typical of the Red Sea coast.

Massawa has a very different feel compared to Asmara. Known as ‘the pearl of the Red Sea,’ it has been shaped by Ottoman, Egyptian, and Italian influences. The old town is a mix of crumbling ruins and fascinating architecture, with coral-stone buildings, Ottoman-style arches, and narrow streets that give it more of an Arabic character than the Italian charm of Asmara.

It’s possible to visit Massawa as a day trip like I did, but if you want to explore the beaches or nearby islands, you’ll need to stay overnight and arrange further transport by bus, taxi, or boat. I spent my time wandering the old town, which, while partially in ruins due to war damage and neglect, was still captivating. The contrast between Asmara and Massawa is striking — one feels frozen in 1930s Italy, the other like an ancient Red Sea trading port with centuries of layered history.

Eritrean Coffee Ceremony

One of the highlights of my stay was being invited by Tekeste and his family to a traditional Eritrean coffee ceremony. Much like in Ethiopia, coffee is roasted, ground, and brewed in front of guests, and the process is as much about hospitality as it is about coffee. It was a real honor to take part, and a fitting end to my journey in Eritrea.

Huge thanks to Tekeste for all of his help and making my trip to Eritrea possible!

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