The Ultimate Mozambique Travel Guide and Itinerary

If you’ve been following my adventures for a while now, you know I recently completed my epic Cape Town to Cairo trip, which included traveling through Mozambique from Eswatini (Swaziland) all the way to Tanzania.

This post is my backpacking guide to Mozambique with the most detailed itineraries you can find on how to travel through Mozambique. For anyone planning to make the same trip or simply traveling in Mozambique, here’s a collection of tips and my detailed travel itinerary for Mozambique to help you navigate the country and make the most of your adventure. Whether you’re backpacking, traveling through Mozambique, or searching for a comprehensive travel guide to Mozambique, this post has you covered.

Here is my travel route on Google Maps:

Some Basic Tips for Traveling in Mozambique

• SIM card & Internet 📱 – Buy a local SIM card if you want to use the internet, because outside the capital city, Wi-Fi is a luxury and reliable connections are rare.
• Getting around 🚌 – Chapas are the most common way to get around Mozambique, but be prepared for a very cramped and uncomfortable ride, with passengers packed in like sardines. The van won’t leave until it’s full, which can take several hours, and once on the road, it stops frequently. So, a trip that Google Maps estimates at two hours can easily take six hours or more.
• Big buses 🚍 – There are also bigger buses running the main routes, but don’t expect the kind of comfortable coaches you might be used to. Having traveled through over half of the African countries, I can honestly say Mozambique has been the most challenging when it comes to transportation and bus quality.
• Don’t overpay 💸 – Be prepared that people will try to charge you more because you’re a mzungu (white person) and many times I was asked to pay extra for my backpack when taking a chapa. You don’t have to pay extra for your luggage!
• Bring some US dollars 💵 – Exchange some US dollars before crossing the border to Mozambique. I needed dollars for the Tanzanian visa (and most of the touristy things have prices in dollars as well), and it was impossible to find dollars in this country. This might be easier in Maputo, but I only realized my need for dollars after I had left Maputo. So do it before entering the country!
• Learn the language 🗣️ – Portuguese is the official language. Learn a few basic phrases; not everyone speaks English, and it’ll make your journey much smoother.
• Swahili time ⏰ – In Mozambique, Swahili time starts at 6 a.m. So if a bus station sign says the bus will arrive at 7 a.m., it will actually arrive at 1 p.m. Always remember to add 6 hours to the listed time!
• Food for vegans & vegetarians 🥗 – If you’re vegan or vegetarian, you’ll eat a lot of matapa which is a typical Mozambican dish made from cassava leaves, coconut milk, and spices.

Mozambique Travel Itinerary: My Route and Experiences

Swaziland → Maputo

I was staying near Mantenga Nature Reserve in Swaziland, and getting from there to Maputo was fairly straightforward. I took a minibus to Manzini, the largest city in Swaziland. From there, I was looking for a minibus to Maputo, but since it was a public holiday, there weren’t many people traveling. Luckily, a shared taxi was heading to Maputo, and the price was the same.

Border crossing:

I didn’t have a visa because I had read in the news that Mozambique had changed its visa policies, making it easier and cheaper to get a visa on arrival. Well… that wasn’t exactly true. It ended up being more expensive than I expected and took quite a long time, which made me feel bad because everyone in the car was waiting for me.

Arriving in Maputo:

The car dropped us off in Maputo, and since it’s a fairly large city, I took a taxi to my hostel. I stayed at Fatima’s Backpackers—a basic but sociable hostel with a shuttle to Tofo. I only stayed two days in Maputo because, honestly, there isn’t that much to do, and I’m not a huge fan of big African cities anyway.

Maputo → Tofo

From Maputo, I took the shuttle organized by my hostel to Tofo. It’s not a private shuttle, but they pick you up from the hostel in Maputo at 5 a.m. and drop you off in front of Fatima’s Nest Hostel in Tofo. As usual with minibuses in Africa, you still have to wait several hours at the bus station in Maputo for the vehicle to fill up. The price for this shuttle was 900 meticals.

Tofo is a backpacker hotspot with a relaxed, chilled-out vibe. Besides meeting other travelers and enjoying the nightlife, you can soak up the beach life and try various water activities. I stayed at Fatima’s Nest in Tofo—a basic hostel, but in a perfect location. The hostel is built on sand dunes just meters from the sea. Another affordable option in Tofo is Pariango Beach Motel.

Tofo is also the best place to spot whale sharks, which is one of the reasons I stayed there for so long. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any whale sharks, but I enjoyed scuba diving instead. If you want to dive or go on an ocean safari to spot whale sharks, check out Liquid Dive Adventures —they’re the best diving company in Tofo, and I highly recommend them! They even have a vegetarian restaurant on site where you can enjoy a delicious vegan lunch.

Tofo → Vilanculos

This is the first leg of the journey that gets a bit more complicated. From Tofo, take a chapa to Inhambane—this should cost around 20 meticals. Then, take a ferry to Maxixe (12.5 meticals).

Once in Maxixe, you’ll have a few options to get to Vilanculos. I took a big bus because I was traveling with a few other backpackers I had met in Tofo, but I wouldn’t recommend this for several reasons. First, these big buses all come from Maputo, so they don’t arrive in Maxixe before 1 p.m. Since we left early in the morning, we had to wait several hours.

The buses are also packed when they arrive, meaning you might have to stand in the aisle for several hours. On top of that, they don’t drive directly to Vilanculos—they drop you on the main road in Pambarra, and from there, you have to squeeze into a painfully crowded pick-up truck to reach Vilanculos, hoping you don’t fall out along the way.

For this bus journey, I ended up paying 300 meticals, but taking a chapa would likely be cheaper.

After all the diving I did in Tofo, I really wanted to continue doing it in Vilanculos. That’s why I decided to stay two nights at Casa Babi,  a boutique hotel with an onsite diving center. Casa Babi is the best-rated hotel in Vilanculos, and I highly recommend splurging for a night or two. Make sure to book in advance on Booking.com, as it’s usually fully booked!

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t ideal for diving while I was there. In fact, everyone in Tofo had warned me not to expect diving in Vilanculos unless conditions were perfect. Still, I enjoyed the hotel’s facilities. They have a swimming pool with a stunning view, and all the rooms face the ocean. Breakfast was one of the best I’ve had in any hotel, with fresh fruits and homemade jams!

A cheaper alternative is Baobab Beach Backpackers, located just next to Casa Babi. I stayed there as well—the location is just as good, right on the beach. They offer dorms, private rooms, and camping options.

While in Vilanculos, take a boat trip to Bazaruto or the nearby islands. During the day, swimming in Vilanculos is nearly impossible because of the low tide, so a boat trip is a refreshing alternative. However, just like with diving, the weather might not always be ideal for boat trips, so be prepared for that.

Vilanculos → Chimoio

Most of the travelers I met only went as far as Tofo and Vilanculos. Very few continued north from there, and there’s a reason for that: transportation options get even worse due to political tensions. There have been numerous armed attacks on vehicles, and I saw many cars still abandoned along the main road when I traveled north from Vilanculos. As a result, most of the larger bus companies have stopped their routes. When I was there, the situation had been stable for a few months—and I think it still is—so hopefully, more transportation options will become available in the future.

My plan was to travel from Vilanculos to Ilha de Moçambique (Mozambique Island). This turned into a three-day journey and included some of the worst bus rides of my life. I started by taking a pick-up truck from Vilanculos to Pambarra. Since all the big buses leave from Maputo, they wouldn’t reach Pambarra until the afternoon—and even then, you’d have to stand because they are always full. The next option was a chapa, but there weren’t any, so I ended up hitchhiking. In Africa, it’s customary to pay the driver, so don’t expect a free ride. I hitched a ride on a very slow-moving truck, and by the time I finally reached Inchope, it was already dark—and I still had to find a chapa to Chimoio.

This is where I made a huge mistake. I traveled to Chimoio because there was a hostel, and I had called them beforehand to ask about bus connections to Nampula. They assured me that there was a big bus leaving from Chimoio to Nampula and I didn’t have to travel back to Inchope to catch the bus. My other option was to travel from Vilanculos to Beira, and I regret not taking that route—because the hostel staff had lied, and the only big bus to Nampula actually departs from Beira.

If you have to choose between Inchope and Chimoio though, stay in Chimoio because Inchope is just a nasty roadside town and I wouldn’t recommend staying there (especially as a solo female traveler).

Chimoio → Nampula

Anyway, I made it to Chimoio when it was almost midnight, slept for two hours and continued traveling again. You can buy a bus ticket to Nampula at the Chimoio bus station, but that includes a chapa ride back to Inchope and then waiting for the bus from Beira. The ticket cost 1,500 meticals.

Because the bus left from Beira, it was already packed by the time it reached Inchope. Even though it was a big bus, people were sitting and standing wherever they could—just like in a chapa. This ended up being the longest and most exhausting bus ride I’ve ever taken: 16 hours in a filthy, overcrowded bus, with the first 8 hours standing. By the time I arrived in Nampula, it was midnight again, and utterly exhausted, I finally checked into Ruby Backpackers.

Nampula → Ilha de Moçambique

The final leg of this exhausting three-day journey was surprisingly straightforward. Just head to the chapa station in Nampula—everyone knows where you’re going because all the tourists are heading to Mozambique Island. You might need to change chapas along the way, but the total cost should be around 200 meticals. The chapa doesn’t take you all the way to the island, but a short pick-up truck ride for 10 meticals completes the trip.

Although the journey from Vilanculos to Ilha de Moçambique was long, tiring, and challenging, it was absolutely worth it. By the time I arrived, I was exhausted—but the charm of the island made all the struggles worthwhile. Walking along the narrow, historic alleys through the old town to my hostel, I completely forgot my tiredness and just soaked in the atmosphere, taking it all in.

On Ilha de Moçambique, I highly recommend staying at Ruby Backpackers. The location is perfect in the heart of the old town, and they have a beautiful rooftop where you can enjoy breathtaking sunsets.

Ilha de Moçambique was once the capital of colonial Portuguese East Africa, and its architecture is a unique blend of colonial Portuguese and Swahili influences. The old Stone Town is a maze of narrow streets, and centuries-old buildings—you could easily spend days exploring, taking photos, and soaking in the history. Ilha de Moçambique is truly a gem and a must-visit when traveling through Mozambique.

Ilha de Moçambique → Pemba

If you want to travel to Pemba, take a chapa to Namialo and then either wait for a big bus—or, like me, skip it. I didn’t have the patience to wait, and I was 100% certain the bus would be full anyway, so I just took another chapa.

In Pemba, stay at Russell’s Place (also called Pemba Magic Lodge), a hostel offering dorms, private rooms, and camping. It’s located right by the beach, a little outside the city center. This is the best place to get information about transportation—Russell himself was incredibly friendly and eager to help whenever I had questions. I also sorted out my travel plans and exchanged money there, which was useful because I needed dollars for my Tanzanian visa.

At Russell’s Place, I met this motorcycle guy who scared the shit out of me, warning that I shouldn’t cross the border from Mozambique to Tanzania. He had just made the crossing himself and insisted it was very dangerous, urging me to change my plans. By that point, I had already traveled so far that turning back wasn’t an option. I’m glad that I didn’t listen to him, because the border crossing wasn’t so bad after all. I mean… it was painful, uncomfortable, and you’ll get wet and dirty. But dangerous – I don’t think so.

Pemba → Palma

Despite all the horror stories I had heard about the border crossing, I still decided to go ahead and continued to Palma—the last town in Mozambique before the Tanzanian border. I took a big bus early in the morning to Mocímboa da Praia and then caught a chapa onward to Palma.

In Palma, I stayed at Palma Residences, which feels like an oasis in the middle of nowhere. Just a few years ago, there was barely anything in Palma, but the gas industry boom brought a surge of new hotels. Most guests at Palma Residences are there for business, but if you’re planning to cross the border into Tanzania, this is the perfect place to stay beforehand. You can rest, recharge, and get help organizing your transport to the border.

Palma → Mtwara (Tanzania)

The border crossing was an unforgettable adventure—definitely one I’ll remember for the rest of my life. I don’t recommend attempting it during the rainy season like I did, but if you have no choice, be prepared to get wet and dirty. It rained the entire day while I was crossing the border.

My first car got stuck in the mud and then broke down, so I had to hitch another ride to the border. My travel companion in this car wasn’t the easiest to deal with—no one spoke English, and for some reason, the driver seemed to dislike me a lot. The road was very very bad, and at some points, there was no road at all—just water. Still, we made it to the border! But the last stretch (about 1 km, maybe more) had to be walked in pouring rain, and my shoes sank deep into the mud with every step.

To actually cross the border, you have to take a boat to the other side of the river—and this was easily the most exciting part of the journey! The boats are old wooden ones, and timing is crucial because at low tide they can get stuck. The motorcycle guy I met in Pemba had been stranded in the middle of the river for three hours! We only got slightly stuck, and at one point everyone had to get off and walk across a small sand island before the boat could pick us up again. Along the way, I saw hippos and crocodiles in the water—not exactly what I wanted to see while I was in a boat like that or forced to walk through the water. But hey—that’s a free safari!

Once across the river, you hop onto a dala dala (the Tanzanian equivalent of a chapa) and officially cross the border. Make sure to have $50 ready for the visa. The dala dala will take you to the nearest town, Mtwara, where you have spend at least one night before continuing your journey the next day.

Final Thoughts on Traveling in Mozambique

Travelling through Mozambique was challenging, exhausting, and at times unpredictable—but that’s exactly what made it so rewarding. From the bustling streets of Maputo to scuba diving in Tofo, the serene beaches in Vilanculos, and the historic charm of Ilha de Moçambique, every stop offered something unique. Even the long, bumpy bus rides and tricky border crossings became part of the adventure, teaching me patience and resilience while giving me unforgettable stories to tell.

If you’re planning a trip to Mozambique, embrace the unpredictability, pack light, and keep an open mind. The country is full of warm, welcoming people, stunning landscapes, and hidden gems—amazing off-the-beaten-path destinations just waiting to be discovered.

I hope this itinerary inspires you to explore Mozambique and see its beauty for yourself—it’s not always easy to travel here, but it’s absolutely worth it.

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